Beautiful Burgos, Spain! Where the streets are colorful and lively and filled with locals and walkers of the Camino de Santiago. It is a quintessential Spanish town that is caught somewhere between its ancient history and modern conveniences. Burgos is a small city of about 180,000 and is home to the Burgos Cathedral, a UNESCO World Heritage site, yet despite its moderate population and old world flair the city has quite the culinary scene! Which of course I was stoked about. Every cafe is adorable, you can’t stumble into a bad meal if you tried, and the weather… don’t even get me started, it is just picture perfect during the summer.
Viva La Pepa
We made our way to Burgos, Spain, a city about 2 hours north of Madrid by train, because of BMW’s work. I feel like I won the Euro Trip lottery because the city is just gorgeous and feels like a total escape from a typical American summer. The city curves around a river, where there is a great running trail by the way, and you can see the gorgeous cathedral from pretty much everywhere which really sets the scene. The streets are lined with cafes that seem to be always open and spill out onto the wide set streets and plazas. Dinner is served traditionally very late, like old world Spain. If you arrive at restaurant before 9pm, you’re practically guaranteed to be the only one there.
English isn’t as widely spoken here so be sure to brush up on your Spanish before arrival. The town is walkable, in fact the only time we took a cab was when we were hit with a heavy rain shower one night after dinner. I think there is a bus but I never took it because walking around was just so dreamy.
If traditional Spanish cuisine is what you are looking for then you have come to the right place. The food here is incredible and expect to eat lots of crusty bread, cheese and jamon. Another favorite is a tiny espresso and tostada for breakfast which comes at the bargain price of about 2 euros. The wine is cheaper than water, seriously, so come prepared to imbibe. The official dish of the city is Morcilla de Burgos, which is pigs blood with rice. Sounds appetizing I know. I gave it a try at Casa Ojeda, listed below, and you should certainly try it out at least once. It was tastier than I thought! Lets call it salty…very salty.
I can’t say enough good things about Burgos! If you are ever passing through Spain this town is worth a night or two of relaxing. If a traditional Spanish pace of life is what you are hoping for then Burgos certainly delivers.
Salmon Tostada and espresso at Viva La Pepa
Running and Bike Path in Burgos, Spain
Colorful Street of Burgos between tapas and dinner time where everyone seems to be out and about.
Seafood Paella at Larruzz
Cafe Ibanez Chocolateria
Here is my guide of where to stay, eat and play in Burgos, Spain!
Viva la Pepa– A cute little cafe located right near the main entrance to the cathedral. Great for an espresso and salmon toast. Plus they have wifi and plugs inside!
Cafe Ibanez Chocolateria– A gorgeous little cafe for a jamon tostada to get your day started.
Pannus– Windows full of pastry confections, get the chocolate donut or chocolate filled croissants. The frappucino is also quite delicious!
El Morito– A cramped bar-like atmosphere that is bustling with locals you will probably be sharing a table with. The portions are big and the prices are cheap. Be ready to share!
Larruzz Burgos– A perfect place for dinner or lunch with a view of the Cathedral. This restaurant shares the plaza with Cathedral and is known for its rice dishes. Get the seafood paella and share a bottle of wine.
La Favorita– A perfectly Spanish restaurant that is lined with legs of jamon hanging from the ceiling. You’ll find traditional meat dishes, a great cheese plate and a Mixta salad that I am still thinking about! Sit on the patio or if you’re inside try and get a view of the grill in the back.
Casa Ojeda– A traditional Spanish tavern that whisks you away to a different time. There is a nice patio outside but the inside is worth a look with some great tile work and impressive wood carvings. There is a reservations only restaurant upstairs but downstairs is more like a bar and you can grab light bites. Try the traditional dish of the city Morcilla de Burgos, or spice pork blood and rice, which they are famous for here.
24 de la Paloma– An upscale spot in the heart of downtown. The tuna tartare, prepped tableside, is a must try. All the dishes are prepared with care and the white table cloth restaurant doesn’t skimp on the desserts either.
La Fabrica Restaurante– The most modern restaurant we visited. You might miss it if you’re not looking for it. The Factory, in English, is unassuming from the outside. Upon entering you’ll come to a casual bar with tapas, beer and wine. The dining room, separated by sliding door, is far more elegant and modern. The staff will print you an English menu if you ask nicely. The dishes change seasonally, ask the server for recommendations.
Cathedral de Burgos
Cathedral de Burgos– A UNESCO world Heritage site, this gorgeous neo-Gothic style castle is worth a walk around. You can go at your pace own so take as much or as little time as you want.
Museum of Human Evolution– Considered to be one of the best museums in Spain, take an afternoon to spend wondering around.
Burgos Choo Choo Train– If the weather is nice, take the night tour which explores more of Burgos than the day time route. The train goes all over town giving you a history lesson of ancient Burgos. The train picks up in the Cathedral square multiple times throughout the day and there is a kiosk to buy tickets 10 minutes before.
NH Collection Palacio de Burgos– This is where we stayed, a modern hotel with plenty of amenities and a hearty breakfast buffet. The hotel is attached to the church next door and has some nice cathedral elements on the bottom floor. Easily walkable to main town.
AC Hotel Burgos– A Marriott affiliate located right on the main walking path. Great location to easily explore the town by foot.